Thursday, May 16, 2013

Walt Disney World Part 6: Fantasmic and Conclusion


Fantasmic

We capped off our day at Disney’s Hollywood Studios, and our vacation, with Fantasmic. (I know it has an exclamation point, but I’m going to omit it for easier typing and to avoid punctuation oddities). I love the dazzling original at Disneyland, but the Studios version is longer and newer, so we were curious to see how it compared. Here, Fantasmic gets its own devoted stadium, so you can actually sit as you wait for the show to begin. The path to the stadium from Sunset Boulevard is much longer than it looks on the park map. The stadium itself is partially covered by lighting equipment supported by poles that unfortunately lie right in the middle of the view from many seats. It seats more than 8,000, and it was mostly filled by the time the show started, though some empty sections remained on the far right. For the preshow, some over-enthusiastic cast members held an audience singing competition. They had the DJ play the beginning of a song (not all of which were Disney, though don’t ask me what they were specifically), and then one or the other side of the amphitheater would finish the phrase as loud as they could. Of course, the leader of each side would goad the other, but of course, it all ended up happy as they encouraged the whole audience to sing together by the end.

The stage itself is a large mountain with some thin ledges, but they’re only really used for the Pocahontas sequence. The show starts the same as the Disneyland version. Bu after the flower part, several costumed animals begin dancing on stage. There is no Kaa, and it is Rafiki, not King Louie, who leads the monkeys on the passing barges. Then the mist screens start up, and images of bubbles with scenes from a veritable cornucopia of Disney movies appear. This goes on for a while before it finally segues to the Jiminy and Monstro segment followed by Mickey getting sucked into the whirlpool.

But instead of Peter Pan’s ship, we get an interminable Pocahontas sequence. In fact, it’s longer than any single element of the show, based on a movie that is the very pinnacle of Disney animation. Forget Snow White, Pinocchio, Dumbo, Bambi, Little Mermaid, Beauty and the Beast, Aladdin, and The Lion King. Heck, forget Citizen Kane, The Godfather, The Shawshank Redemption, Psycho, and Jaws. The Mona Lisa, Michelangelo’s David, Shakespeare, Einstein, and Gandhi pale next to the might that is Pocahontas! All shall bow before its pure awesomeness and unsurpassable perfection! POCAHONTAS 4-EVER!

Anyway, the unremarkable sequence starts with Radcliffe, the most menacing cinematic villain of all time, proclaiming the mountain for King James. Then, Native Americans in boats appear and then there is a disjointed battle scene between the settlers and the Indians. John Smith is about to be killed when Grandmother Willow—yes, SHE CANNOT BE KILLED—interrupts, disregarding the conflict as a “terrible dream.” Is it finally over? Nope, there’s still more as “Colors of the Wind” plays on the mist screens.

At long last, the barges with the couples from Snow White, The Little Mermaid, and Beauty and the Beast arrive, followed by the Queen/Witch scene. She calls the villains, but now there are much more than just Ursula, Chernabog, and Maleficent. We also get Cruella de Vil, Scar, Frollo , and Jafar. Why does Cruella want to go after Mickey? Does she want to turn his skin into a leather coat? And what about Frollo? Does he lust after Mickey and want to burn him as a witch if he can’t, erm, have him for his own?

After Jafar appears, he sends Mickey to the Cave of Wonders, and the mist screens show Mickey escaping the lava on a magic carpet. The live Mickey then encounters Jafar as a snake. Mickey then finds a lamp and rubs it, which turns Jafar into a genie. Now all-powerful, Jafar logically decides to withdraw, making way for Hades, who seems to have ADD with a series of disconnected and rather silly statements: “Hades rules! OK, I’m cool, I’m cool. So Mickey’s so noble. Oh, and you’ll love this one more thing.”

Chernabog appears on the mist screens as on Disneyland and then we get the Maleficent sequence, though the dragon is apparently older and not as advanced as the upgraded Disneyland one. For her death scene, after Mickey says, “You may think you’re so powerful. This is my dream!” he stalls around and Maleficent is considerate enough to accommodate as she watches Mickey laboriously create a wall of water. He then marches over to a sword that happens to be in a nearby rock, pulls it out, and then it shoots some sparks at the Maleficent dragon who suddenly realizes that she should have taken Mickey out while we was taking his time making the water wall and marching over to the sword.

Then we get the villain death scenes, three of which are hilarious. Not coincidentally, they are all new to this Disney World version. Cruella shouts, “Imbeciles!” thwarted out of getting her mouse-skin coat. Frollo says “Witchcraft!” and Hades goes, “Ooh! Eeh! Ow!” as if he’s getting bitten by mosquitos of the underworld. Needless to say, these scenes undermine the drama and intensity of the death scenes, though it’s possible that some parents thought that the Disneyland version was too intense and complained, and the Studios got this as a result.

After this, the finale is the same, with one difference: the Mark Twain Riverboat is replaced by a dinky steamboat with fewer characters and no spinning sparklers on the side. This is inexplicable; they built a whole new stadium just for this show, so why did they have to use such a small boat? The final pyrotechnics are the same as the upgraded Disneyland version, the show ending with the loud, bright mines.

I have to say that I like the Disneyland version more, despite the shorter running time. The pink elephants and Pinocchio sequences are more interesting than the long bubble sequence, where it’s hard to make out a lot of the movie scenes anyway. The Pocahontas scene, as you may have guessed, is an underwhelming sequence from an underwhelming movie, and made even worse by a comparison to the Peter Pan scene with the Columbia sailing ship. A dynamic and humorous scene is jettisoned here for a staid, plodding one that has a narrative cop-out (Grandmother Willow) to boot. And the addition of so many villains is like the old saying of too many cooks spoiling the broth. Some, like Cruella and Hades, are more humorous than menacing, though maybe that was the point. Scar is hardly a presence at all and Frollo, who is a great (and creepy) character in The Hunchback of Notre Dame, is laughably out of place here. And while I did harp a bit on Mickey taking his sweet time to kill Maleficent in this version, I do think the water wall is effective as an element of spectacle.

I want to make clear that these disappointing aspects are all in comparison with the Disneyland show, and are furthermore my own opinion. Fantasmic is still a sensational show with astonishing effects and majestic, powerful music. It is the best show I saw at Disney World, and I suspect very few people would walk away from it disappointed. To say that it is the epitome of visual spectacle may be an exaggeration, but few things I’ve seen have come close.

Conclusion

Disney World is a huge, overwhelming place, and I am aware that I still have lots more to see in the four major parks alone. I still found a variety of attractions to enjoy, from blockbusters like Expedition Everest, Kilimanjaro Safaris, Festival of the Lion King, Test Track, Mission: Space, Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster, and The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror to hidden gems such as the Tomorrowland Transit Authority PeopleMover, Flights of Wonder, Living With the Land, Spaceship Earth (admittedly not so hidden), the manatees in The Living Seas, the train set in Germany, and the koi pond in Japan.

As far as food went, with the exception of Kona Café in the Polynesian Resort, all of the best food was at the quick-service restaurants (though this was probably because the good full-service restaurants in the parks were already booked). From the Flame Tree Barbecue in Animal Kingdom to Sunshine Seasons, Karamell-Küche, and Boulangerie Patisserie in Epcot, food at these counter-service eateries was better than I expected. Even the sandwiches from the Pop Century food court and the items from Magic Kingdom’s Columbia Harbor House weren’t bad.

I was surprised at how few E-ticket attractions were at each park. Maybe with four parks, Disney World can afford to spread its headliners out. But Disneyland and even California Adventure have more top-tier rides than any single Disney World park. For comparison:

Magic Kingdom: Space Mountain, Splash Mountain, Big Thunder Mountain Railroad (3)

Animal Kingdom: Expedition Everest, Kilimanjaro Safaris, Kali River Rapids, Dinosaur (4)

Epcot: Test Track, Mission: Space, Soarin’ (3)

Disney’s Hollywood Studios: Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster, The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, Star Tours, Toy Story Midway Mania (4)

California Adventure: The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, Soarin’ Over California, Toy Story Midway Mania, Grizzly River Run, California Screamin’, Radiator Springs Racers (6)

Disneyland: Space Mountain, Splash Mountain, Big Thunder Mountain Railroad, Star Tours, Matterhorn, Indiana Jones Adventure: Temple of the Forbidden Eye (6)

In other words, Disney World has two more headliner rides than Disneyland with twice the number of parks. Of course, there are other good attractions, but Disneyland in particular has a high number of attractions that the Disney World parks can’t match. Plus, in California you can walk from one park to the other in less than five minutes, so there’s definitely a larger concentration of attractions in a much smaller area in Anaheim.

That said, Disney World still has many things that Disneyland will probably never have, most notably Animal Kingdom and Epcot. The latter shows that it’s not all about the quantity of attractions. Epcot only has three headliners yet, as I’ve stated, it is the Florida park I enjoyed the most. It has a down-to-earth feeling that’s removed from the fantasy of Disneyland, yet is still engrossing and fresh.

Since I’ve been to Disneyland so much, I would, at present, be more excited by a trip to Disney World than Disneyland. The sense of novelty will probably take a few trips to wear off. The vast number of things to do at Disney World may be what appeals to many, but I suspect I will always like Disneyland more. One could argue about Disneyland’s originality, sense of history, merits of its individual attractions, and I would probably agree with them. One could also say that because I went to Disneyland first, I have a bias for it. But none of these arguments would influence the truth that Disneyland feels better to me. Of course it would come down to feeling for me—I’m a writer, not a mathematician. And, as is universally known, all writers are touchy-feely, wishy-washy wimps. Then again, I’ve always been interested in science and examining why I like what I like. It may be all due to personal bias, which would honestly be disappointing. But these posts, written for myself more than anyone, are an attempt to explore the differences between the two resorts and come to some kind of conclusion.

Anyway, that’s way more words on a theme park than is necessary. Disney World was a great place, though very strange and almost alien to this Disneylander. But this strangeness is intriguing, and I would be eager to discover more about this wonderful destination.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Walt Disney World Part 5: Disney's Hollywood Studios


We spent our last full day at Disney’s Hollywood Studios, though we left partway through to have brunch at Epcot’s France pavilion via a very slow boat ride that stopped three times along the way (at the Swan/Dolphin hotels, Yacht and Beach Club Resort, and BoardWalk Resort before reaching a special entrance to Epcot in World Showcase between France and the United Kingdom). Many attractions at the Studios are shows, and given the way they are timed, it is difficult to see them all without either waiting around or running from place to place.

The Studios (which was called Disney-MGM Studios until recently) is a slightly disorganized park that resembles the studio section of California Adventure—in fact, the turnstiles at the entrance to the parks look almost identical. It used to be a working studio, mainly for obscure TV movies and shows, though the interior of Isla de Muerta from the first Pirates of the Caribbean was shot on a soundstage here. Disney also used to have an animation studio here that made the great films Mulan and Lilo & Stitch, as well as the mediocre Brother Bear. The Magic of Disney Animation used to tour the studio with views of the animators at work, but now it’s apparently just like the version at California Adventure (minus Turtle Talk With Crush, which is at Epcot).

The Studios has several attractions that are duplicated at the California parks and which we did not visit, including Toy Story Mania (though it has a niftier indoor queue), Star Tours (with an AT-AT outside and six simulators instead of Disneyland’s four), Muppet-Vision 3D (sorry, I don’t know how to make that star symbol without changing fonts), Disney Junior—Live on Stage (though we haven’t seen it at California Adventure either), and Walt Disney: One Man’s Dream. Attractions we didn’t get to were the walk-through Legend of Jack Sparrow, The American Idol Experience, Lights Motor Action Stunt Show (which only had two showings that day), and the Voyage of the Little Mermaid show.

We got to the park early and joined the line to get in. Unlike at the other parks, Disney decided to open the whole park about 20 minutes before the official opening at 9. We joined the throng, and were just about the only ones to turn right on Sunset Boulevard as everyone else rushed to Toy Story Midway Mania. At the end of the boulevard are four attractions: Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster, The Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, Fantasmic, and Beauty and the Beast Live on Stage.

We turned left to Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster, which features a giant electric guitar on the outside of the ride building. There was no line, and we walked through the queue, which is the headquarters of the fictional G-Force record label, with musical memorabilia on display. The preshow room looks into a recording studio, where we see Aerosmith in the mixing booth. They’re late for their concert, and as their manager rushes them along, the band insists that we go along with them. They order stretch limos just for us. Still indoors, we emerge into a Hollywood alley at night, complete with chain link fence and graffiti-covered walls. This is the loading area for this indoor roller coaster; the train “limo” is several cars long.

The trains turn and stop at the entrance to a tunnel, with a signboard above displaying traffic information. The sounds of Aerosmith come on the onboard speakers, the DJ counts down, and the coaster launches from 0 to 60 miles per hour in 2.8 seconds (by contrast, California Screamin’ goes from 0 to 55 MPH in 5 seconds). The coaster immediately goes straight up the back wall and turns upside down at the top, and then loops upside down again. All this is in the dark, by the way. The coaster then speeds past and through black-lit icons of Los Angeles, including freeway signs, the Hollywood sign, and Randy’s Donuts. Midway through, there is another corkscrew, for a total of three inversions. All this is set to an Aerosmith song. At the exit, a screen shows the aftermath of Aerosmith’s concert. Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster is certainly the wildest coaster at Disney World, and also wilder then California Screamin’ (though nowhere near as long). The double inversion right after the launch is especially spectacular.

Then it was on to the magnificent Twilight Zone Tower of Terror, which stands several stories (figuratively) above California Adventure’s version. There was still no wait, and the outside queue winds through the gardens and walking paths of the hotel before entering the lobby. The lobby and preshow in the library with Rod Serling are essentially the same as in California. The boiler room is much smaller and only one story, with four elevator doors compared to the three doors each on two levels in California. The elevator door opens right into the car, unlike in California where you go through two doors.

The ride ascends without moving back and the doors open to the corridor scene (no mirror scene). The ghosts disappear and the corridor fades into the star field, and a window at the end of the corridor moves toward the car before collapsing. The doors close and the elevator ascends to the Fifth Dimension scene. This is a compelling ride element sadly missing from the West Coast version. Several props, such as a ticking clock, eyeball, and the ghosts from the preshow can be seen behind glass before the room darkens. The elevator then moves out and forward into the room, past the props. This description doesn’t get across how bizarre and almost ethereal this segment of the ride is. The car approaches another star field and a bright line that extends upward and downward before splitting to reveal a pair of doors. The car travels through and pauses.

There is a moment of silence and suspense before the drops begin. Unlike in California, where the drops are the same every time, the faster-than-gravity drops are randomized so the sequence is different with each ride. Every time you go to the top, the doors open to give a view of the park outside. Once the drops are over, you see a screen with images of a spiral and other items from the Twilight Zone TV introduction. The cars then back away from the screen and turn to arrive at the unloading area, which is in a different location from the loading area.

The mechanics of the ride are quite interesting. In California, there are three shafts with two cars each; as one car loads, the other car is going through the ride (as you can hear). In Florida, the cars start out in four shafts named Alpha (though I know the official spelling is Alfa), Bravo, Charlie, and Delta. Each car is actually ensconced in an outer lift vehicle that moves up the shaft. In the Fifth Dimension scene, the cars exit the outer lift vehicle and move forward. The cars from Alpha and Bravo go to the Echo drop shaft, while cars from Charlie and Delta go to the Foxtrot drop shaft. Upon entering the Fifth Dimension scene, if you look down you can actually see the guide track in front of you and another to the right or left (depending on what shaft you’re in); the two merge together further ahead. The cars lock into another lift vehicle in the Echo and Foxtrot drop shafts that performs the high-speed lifts and drops. (See towerofterror.org for more behind-the-scenes info.)

The Florida version of the Tower of Terror has been billed by some as the best theme park attraction on the planet, and it’s not hard to see why. The immersive theming, otherworldly Fifth Dimension scene, and the randomly generated thrills give it a higher re-visit value than the California version. The drop sequence in the latter version starts suddenly and takes one by surprise the first time, though one can expect it coming on subsequent rides. In Disney World, one knows that the drops are coming as the ride stops in darkness and the suspense builds…the question is just exactly when they will start. This is the true version of the Tower of Terror (the versions at the other Disney parks are based on the California version) and one of the best rides I’ve been on.

Back at the central plaza of the park is The Great Movie Ride, a 20 minute long, extremely elaborate dark ride past huge sets recreating scenes from classic films. The ride building is in a façade of Grauman’s Chinese Theater. The line goes through a replica of the theater’s lobby into a large room showing trailers from various films. Then it’s into the ride vehicles themselves, large two-car conveyances led by a live tour guide. The train passes under a theater marquee and past scenes from Footlight Parade, Singin’ in the Rain, and the chimney sequence from Mary Poppins. In a gangster scene inspired by The Public Enemy, the train stops at a traffic light. A shootout begins as a car crashes through a wall. A live gangster (a woman when we went) kidnaps the tour guide and hijacks the train. Then there is a Western scene with Clint Eastwood and John Wayne. The train enters the spaceship Nostromo and passes by Sigourney Weaver. The alien attacks from the ceiling for guests in the first car and bursts from the right for guests in the second car. The Well of Souls from Raiders of the Lost Ark is next, as we see Indy and Sallah struggle to lift the Ark of the Covenant among hundreds of snakes.

A temple with a large jewel dominates the next room. The gangster leaves the train and approaches the jewel, but the temple guardian, his back towards us, warns the gangster that the jewel is sacred. The gangster ignores the guardian and grabs the jewel. There is a puff of smoke, to conceal the gangster going down a hidden lift to be replaced by skeletal remains (sorry to ruin the illusion). The guardian is, predictably, the original tour guide, who takes charge of the train again. It passes through a mummy chamber and Tarzan swinging by on a vine to the Casablanca farewell scene at the airport between Bogart and Bergman. Next is a projection of the Sorcerer’s Apprentice segment from Fantasia.

The final scene is from The Wizard of Oz. Munchkins welcome Dorothy before the Wicked Witch of the West rises out of the ground to harass us. We then pass by Dorothy and friends to a theater showing a montage of films, including Snow White, The Godfather, Star Wars, Terminator, Taxi Driver, North by Northwest, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, 2001: A Space Odyssey, Forrest Gump, and Citizen Kane. The trains then return to the loading station. This is an entertaining ride with intricate sets featuring films that people my age and younger may not be aware of (I’ve seen most of the films featured except for Footlight Parade, The Public Enemy, and the Johnny Weissmuller Tarzan).

Our sojourn to Epcot took a while—again, it takes a painfully long time to commute from park to park. When we returned, we decided to see Indiana Jones—Epic Stunt Spectacular. I’m a big fan of the Indy movies, especially the odd numbered ones, so this show was the first priority for me among those offered at the Studios. The preshow involves selection of stunt volunteers from the audience. With one exception, they act more as extras in crowd scenes, though the casting director has them do things like scream and stand on one foot. The actual 30-minute show begins with Indy making his way through a recreation of the idol temple from the beginning of Raiders of the Lost Ark. He dodges spikes that pop up from the ground, climbs out of a collapsing floor, and runs away from the infamous giant boulder. At this point, he disappears, and the “director” calls “Cut” and asks if Indy is okay. We’re introduced to the crew and stunt team as Indy emerges and the temple set is moved away to reveal a Cairo marketplace set. After an interlude with the audience volunteers, there is another stunt sequence, with Indy and Marion evading swordsmen as they fight their way up and across the building rooftops. Gunfire and falls from great heights abound.

After another clever interlude involving Marion and one of the audience members demonstrating fighting techniques, there is the final set piece. An actual plane appears from backstage, and Indy and Marion fight around it as “Nazis” shoot machine guns and fuel-laden trucks drive by. The scene and the show end with a fiery finale and explosions (though the airplane itself does not explode; if you have several shows every day of the year, you don’t want to be buying a new plane for each one). The Indy show is action-packed with a few genuine surprises, though there are less behind-the-scenes explanations that I’d expected. But I’d definitely see it again.

Back on Sunset Boulevard is the Beauty and the Beast show that, like Indy, takes place in a covered amphitheater. At half an hour, it glosses over some aspects of the story. Lefou and Maurice are entirely absent. After a mash-up of the songs “Belle” and “Gaston,” the narrator intones, “After a series of events, Belle found herself at a mysterious castle.” And after Gaston stabs the Beast, he walks offstage, never to be seen again. Someone not familiar with the movie may wonder how it got nominated for Best Picture Oscar (I certainly think it deserved the nomination). It should be noted that unlike in the Broadway show, the enchanted objects are in costumes that cover their whole bodies and thus their characters’ voices are prerecorded. But it’s still a pleasant enough show and can’t be accused of dragging like Finding Nemo: The Musical (it has the opposite problem). But again, it’s nowhere close to Aladdin: A Musical Spectacular.

Dinner was at the ‘50s Prime Time Café, which, shockingly, had no line (Mama Melrose’s Ristorante Italiano was not accepting walk-ins, and rides like Toy Story Mania and Tower of Terror had lines of over an hour at that point). The setting is a 1950s home dining room, with TVs showing vintage clips of period sitcoms and commercials (as a result, I think I have the theme to “I Married Joan” permanently stuck in my head). The waitress, or “Aunt” as she insisted on being called, informed us of the rules: No elbows on the table and finish your vegetables. Oh, and you have to pile up your plates when you’re done eating. It’s fun if you’re in the right mood, but I can see how it could be exasperating if you’re tired and just want to eat. I had the sampler, which included some of the featured homey fare: fried chicken, pot roast, and meatloaf. Surprisingly, the meat loaf was the best, though the fried chicken wasn’t bad. I’ve definitely had better pot roast, including at the Plaza Inn at Disneyland. It’s a fine restaurant for comfort food, though the atmosphere and theme are bigger draws than the actual fare.

Our wait for the Studio Backlot Tour was probably the longest we waited for a non-show attraction at Disney World not counting breakdowns, though at about 15 minutes, it was still quite tolerable. There are several lines, and a mass number of guests are let in every 15-20 minutes. We had in fact waited for this before Indy, but we were cut off right before we got into the next area, and would have missed the show had we waited another 15-20 minutes in addition to the 30-minute tour itself.

The monitors in the queue area show a rather dated and brief behind-the-scenes look at Pearl Harbor, a film that proves that Ben Affleck is really suited for directing and not acting.  Michael Bay drones in a monotone voice about the wonderful special effects he used in the film without really giving any specifics. And given that the film is Pearl Harbor, nobody would be interested in the specifics anyway.

We were let in to the next area just in front of the cut-off this time. In this next segment, we watch as technicians show off a special effects tank. A small wheelhouse is drenched with water, and flames and mortars go off in the surrounding water. The tour then moves through a prop warehouse to the boarding area for the tram.

The tram drives through the rather empty backlot area. There are barely any sets, though you do get a good look at the Earful Tower, the studio’s requisite water tower. The tram passes through the costume and manufacturing buildings, where you can see personnel working on various costumes and props. Or, if you go fairly late in the day like we did, you can see empty rooms. The tram then goes through a small boneyard, with vehicles like the motorcycle from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and Walt Disney’s private jet. You can also see some of the prep areas for the Lights Motors Action Stunt Show as well as a portion of the stage itself.

The tour climaxes with Catastrophe Canyon. On the left side of the tram, you can see a canyon, pipes, and a fuel truck. Shaker tables under the tram simulate an earthquake. The fuel truck explodes, and flames and fireballs erupt from various pipes and tanks. A huge flash flood deluges the canyon, and more water flows down from above the tram. After, the tram drives by the backside of the canyon to reveal the mechanisms and support structure of the set. The tram goes past the boneyard and stunt show area again before returning to the loading station. The exit is a walkthrough of a museum that, at the time, featured posters and props from some of AFI’s 100 greatest films of all time. As there isn’t much production going on at the studio, the only interesting part is Catastrophe Canyon. The tour at Universal Studios Hollywood is much more entertaining and informative, though none of its ride-like elements are quite as spectacular as Catastrophe Canyon.

We didn’t get to do as much at the Studios as Epcot or Animal Kingdom, yet at the same time, I don’t feel like we missed that much. Just the Lights Motors Action Stunt Show and Voyage of the Little Mermaid. The shows were entertaining and though there were only a few rides, most of them were top notch (like at Animal Kingdom). The Tower of Terror was a special favorite of mine, and it’s too bad that we only got around to riding it once. Disney’s Hollywood Studios is a nice park, and while it doesn’t have the variety of Epcot or the novelty of Animal Kingdom, it still has many attractions that are among the best that Disney, or anyone, has done.

Note: We did see Fantasmic at the end of our day at the Studios, but I have a lot to write on that, and so I am including it in the next (and final) post.

Next: Fantasmic and Conclusion

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Walt Disney World Part 4: Epcot


Time for my favorite Disney World park. We went to Epcot on three of our days, though one of them was just for lunch, one was for half a day, and the other we made a brief detour to the Polynesian Resort for dinner (see part 1 for more on the Polynesian). As such, this will not be chronological like the posts for the other parks. And it is a lot longer than the others, so beware.

Although Animal Kingdom is the biggest Disney World park, Epcot has the most walking ground open to guests. It is divided into two parts. Near the entrance is Future World, which features pavilions containing rides, shows, and exhibits focusing on science and technology. Further in is World Showcase, where pavilions for eleven countries surround a 40-acre lagoon. Each country’s pavilion features shops, eateries, and live entertainment, and a few also boast rides, films, and shows (though nothing on an E-ticket level). The two areas don’t really go together, but the park is so big that visual thematic jarring is minimized. The circumference of World Showcase’s lagoon is 1.2 miles according to the Unofficial Guide, and though Future World looks small on the park map, it still covers a decent amount of ground.

Future World is divided into two halves, an east side and a west side. Upon entering, you are facing south (the opposite of Disneyland and Magic Kingdom where you are facing north), so east is to the left and west is to the right. Just inside the entrance and past a group of triangular sculptures is the park’s icon, a giant golf ball that holds a dark ride, Spaceship Earth (more on this later). On the other side of the golf ball is a plaza with two large crescent buildings on either side. These structures, which we did not explore, contain a quick-service restaurant (Electric Umbrella), the Mouse Gear store, and Innoventions, a collection of high-tech interactive exhibits (the Disneyland version is in Tomorrowland’s old Carousel of Progress building). Straight ahead are a fountain and the World Showcase lagoon, while to the left and right passages in the middle of each building lead to Future World East and Future World West.

Future World East (to the left) includes three pavilions. Straight through the passageway is Test Track, Epcot’s headliner attraction and the basis of the technology for California Adventure’s Radiator Springs Racers. Although I went on the ride three times, we never waited in the regular standby line; we either used Fastpass or the single rider line (as an aside, I’ve never waited in the standby line for Radiator Springs Racers either).

When Test Track opened in 1999, it was sponsored by GM. In 2012, Chevrolet took over sponsorship, and the ride underwent a drastic re-theming (though the track itself is the same). I haven’t been on the original, but from what I’ve seen on YouTube, it looked like a much more informative and less random ride, as monitors explained the various tests as your ride vehicle performed them. As the ride is now, you basically explore a rather sparse looking version of TRON-land.

In the queue, you scan a card and use a computer console to design your own car out of preselected elements. Before boarding, you scan the card again and throughout the ride, monitors display the ranking of how each rider’s vehicle performed in the tests. In practice, this doesn’t work too well; every time we rode, each monitor showed a different set of cars. In addition, Fastpass guests and single riders aren’t given the chance to design cars (though I personally couldn’t give a whit about that).

The ride vehicles are, well, cars with two rows of three with standard shoulder-and-lap seatbelts. The first part of the ride is completely indoors. After the safety check, the vehicles ascend a ramp (this used to be the hill test, but now it’s just a ramp. The former block test that used to follow is omitted). For the weather test, the cars accelerate forward on a lit track before swerving suddenly in front of projected rain. They then make a U-turn and accelerate again, slowing in front of a projected lightning bolt (this used to be the ABS braking test). Aerodynamics are tested as the cars pass through three chambers, one of which has a mirror that displays a stream of air moving over the car. In the handling test, the cars move rapidly through a series of tight hairpin turns, nearly crashing into a truck at the end. The former barrier test is gone, and instead you accelerate toward a pair of doors that swing open at the last second as the cars speed outside. There is a brief straightaway, and then the cars loop around a circle of display cars. Then there’s another straightaway, and the cars accelerate dramatically back toward the ride building, then make a deeply banked loop all around its circumference before dipping back down into the building into the loading station. And again, on one of our rides, the ride had a minor breakdown right at the end, though we were not evacuated and thus not given re-ride passes. Bummer. After getting off, it takes forever to exit back outside, as you walk through a series of rooms and corridors with Chevrolet-based video games, then to a showroom with Chevrolet vehicles, and finally to the Chevrolet gift shop before you get back outside.

Test Track is a lot faster and more kinetically thrilling than Radiator Springs Racers during the outside portion. However, it is not as well themed, especially in the newest incarnation where the tests aren’t really explained. The visuals, reflecting the virtual test theme, are very minimalistic and almost cheap looking. Sure, the original ride may have needed updating, but making it “virtual” is almost a cop-out, as basically all the Imagineers had to do was make everything black, and then add some neon lights. It’s still a great ride, and the thrill of the outside part is excellent. But a perfect ride of this type would have the inner theming and racing element of Radiator Springs Racers and the speed of Test Track.

To the left of Test Track (facing the entrance) is Epcot’s newest original ride, the notorious Mission: Space. The ride has a reputation for extreme intensity and potential for motion sickness. Disney now offers two versions of the ride: the less intense Green and the original Orange. At every time of the day, the wait time for Green was 5 minutes and Orange was either 5 or 10 minutes. It looked like there were four simulators, but whenever we went there was just one for each version running.

I haven’t really gotten motion sickness from a ride (The Simpsons Ride got me the closest), but I do get carsick if I read. We opted for the Green version first. Now, the Green version isn’t exactly Dumbo; the ride is still a simulator and it’s comparable to Star Tours. But what the Green version doesn’t do is spin to simulate the heavy g-forces a space flight experiences during lift off and landing. After riding, we then opted to try the Orange version.

At the entrance to the ride building, cast members ask what version you want, then hand you a “ticket” and show you what line to get in. The tickets are printed with all sorts of health warning and disclaimers, especially the Orange one. Inside the building, the queue passes by a large, round model of a space station module set up on its side, and then passes by a Mission Control center.



You are then directed into a briefing room, which holds ten groups of four. Monitors introduce you to Lieutenant Dan, I mean Gary Sinise, who not only has legs, but also is your team leader for your mission. You are on a mission to Mars. It might be the first, though there is already a base there when you land, so maybe not. Anyway, “It is intense,” Sinise warns before you are admitted into a long, curving corridor that actually surrounds the simulator itself. Your group of four waits at a door, and Sinise appears on another monitor where he explains that each of you has a special role: commander, engineer, navigator, and pilot. Anyhow, there are two lit buttons that you’re supposed to press when he tells you. Another technician says that if you start to feel sick, keep staring straight ahead. Do not close your eyes or look to the side. I’m guessing that doing one of these things could make you aware that you’re actually spinning, and disorient you even more. Even if there is no line, like there was when we went, the two pre-shows still take about ten minutes.

When the doors open, you enter the simulator room. The simulator itself is not a single cabin like in Star Tours. A central column has arms that attach to ten small cabins, each of which holds a group of four. You enter the cabin and bring down the over-the-shoulder restraints, and a cast member closes the capsule, which brings the controls and viewing screen towards you. Handy barf bags are provided. There are lots of little buttons, switches, and a joystick, but they don’t do anything during the ride. In fact, the two buttons you’re supposed to press don’t really matter either, as you’ll soon find out.

The ride starts with a launch. In the Orange version, you can definitely feel the g-forces, and I haven’t been on a roller coaster yet that pushes you back that hard into your seat for so long. “Gnarly” would be a good word for how it feels; I could feel my carotid arteries pumping harder, and though I could lift my hands, it felt very peculiar. It’s an adrenaline rush, in any case, and a unique experience for those of us who are not pilots or astronauts.

At various points during the rest of the ride, the voice of Mr. Sinise tells each person to push a button; the navigator is asked to fire the boosters at one point and the engineer to send the crew into hypersleep. But if you take too long or if no one’s sitting in the appropriate seat, the “autopilot” does it anyway. I rode by myself one time, and the other two people with me didn’t push any of the buttons when they were told to. As a result, the ride got confused and the autopilot began to do everything, so when I pushed my buttons, nothing would happen, and then the autopilot would take over.

Anyway, after the launch, the rocket curves around the moon, justifying some more intense g-forces, and bypasses the earth. We are then put into cryogenic sleep before the ship emerges in the midst of a meteor shower. Surviving this, the ship descends to the Martian surface with even more g-forces, then zooms and twists through a canyon before making a rough landing on the base. There’s a fake-out as the ground crumbles in front of the ship to reveal a precipitous drop; alas, you don’t fall and the ride is over.

Mission: Space Green isn’t too different from any other simulator, though you are in a small cabin with only four other people. But the Orange version is something else entirely. The g-forces are created by spinning, but you can’t really tell that you’re spinning and the effect is at once both exhilarating and almost otherworldly. I myself didn’t get motion sickness, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. And I’m sure Mr. Gump would be proud to see how far his old friend has gone.

To the left of Mission: Space is the closed Wonders of Life pavilion that used to hold a simulator ride (Body Wars, directed by Leonard Nimoy), an animatronic show (Cranium Command), Martin Short’s sex-ed film The Making of Me, and other minor attractions. To the left of that (and actually near the entrance, though it’s inaccessible from here) is the Universe of Energy, a combination theater film and ride starring Ellen DeGeneres, Bill Nye the Science Guy, Jamie Lee Curtis, and Alex Trebek (who has a mustache). The whole thing lasts about 30 minutes not counting the preshow, and the nature of the attraction makes it impossible to get off outside of an emergency. And Disney does not consider needing to take a dump or a piss an emergency.

The preshow introduces Ellen on a series of screens, and we are introduced to her and a dream she has which form the plot of the attraction. She dreams she’s on Jeopardy against Albert Einstein (who doesn’t do much of anything during the whole ride) and Dr. Judy Peterson (Curtis), Ellen’s childhood nemesis. The topic is energy (the attraction was originally sponsored by Exxon, after all), and Ellen is no match for Judy. She pauses her dream to ask help from her neighbor, Bill Nye the Science Guy. He invites her to learn about energy, and then the doors open to the actual theater.

The theater is divided into six large sections (one of which was covered up when we went) with doors at the end of each row. The seats are benches and not individual chairs. Once everyone is seated, the sections immediately start rotating. Bill Nye narrates a brief history of the universe (nothing to do with Stephen Hawking, though), and a large screen shows the Big Bang and its aftermath. The pair then travels to the time of the dinosaurs to explore the origin of fossil fuels. A large door in the side of the theater opens, and each section then travels through, one after the other, to the ride portion of the attraction.

The ride is a much more elaborate variation of the Primeval World exhibit seen on the Disneyland Railroad. The sections pass by several scenes of dinosaurs doing their thing. An animatronic of Ellen battles a pesky specimen, though Bill Nye is nowhere to be seen (you can hear him, though). At the end, the sections enter another theater where a voice narrates radio reports from various moments in history as we wait for all the sections to get in (they move rather slowly). Then, another big-screen film starts as Bill takes Ellen on a journey showing where other sources of energy come from, including dams, solar panels, and wind farms. The sections then go back into the original theater as Ellen returns to her Jeopardy game. The Final Jeopardy question asks what the only unlimited source of energy is. Ellen gets the predictable Disney-esque answer, which is, of course, human imagination.

Universe of Energy is an interesting attraction with a unique ride/theater system. The dinosaur ride portion, however, ties very loosely with the concept of energy, and the attraction doesn’t clearly explain the connection. It almost feels like Disney had a neat ride segment, and then tried to build a film about energy around it. The film is fairly amusing, though you probably won’t learn anything new (at least I didn’t). But again, the structure of the attraction and the entertainment value from the actors make it worth seeing.

As mentioned before, the huge golf ball near Epcot’s entrance holds Spaceship Earth, a dark ride with constantly moving vehicles like in the Haunted Mansion. Its theme is the history and development of human communication with narration by Dame Judi Dench. As the ride starts, you’re told to look at a monitor, and a picture is taken of your face, which will be utilized later. The ride spirals up the interior of the golf ball, passing by animatronic scenes including early humans making cave paintings, an Egyptian noble dictating to a scribe, the fall of Rome, Gutenberg’s printing press, Michelangelo painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, a television broadcast of the moon landing, and the development of the personal computer. Now at the top of the dome, the ride enters a huge planetarium-like area, with stars projected all around and the Earth right in the center. The vehicles then turn around and descend backward through a blue-lit tunnel. There is no scenery, but touch-screens in the cars ask several multiple-choice questions about how you would like to live in the future (only one screen per two-seater vehicle, so no squabbling). At the end of the questionnaire, the screens show a video of your future, with your heads grafted onto cartoon bodies. At the ride’s exit, you can use computer consoles to find your ride photo and email it to yourself. The email also contains a link to your video (download it as soon as you can because it’s apparently taken off the server after a few days). Spaceship Earth is a fairly edifying ride with some impressive scenes. The descent is visually sparse as you’re supposed to be focusing on the questionnaire; the previous version (1994-2007) narrated by Jeremy Irons had much more visuals as the cars went back down to ground level.

Future World West also has three pavilions. Closest to the World Showcase lagoon is the Imagination pavilion. It has a theater, a ride, and an interactive area. The theater for many years showed Honey I Shrunk the Audience, and it was showing Captain EO Tribute when we went. The ride is the bizarre Journey Into Imagination With Figment. Fittingly, the ride vehicles are slightly strange as well. A train of four large cars travels along the track. But the cars can rotate, and the train stops at several points as it comes to different rooms. The ride is a whimsical ode to imagination, starring Eric Idle as Dr. Nigel Channing of the Imagination Institute. He is trying to show guests several experiments in an attempt to quantify imagination, but this purple dragon named Figment keeps messing things up. For example, in one room, Channing tries to demonstrate something with smell, but then Figment enters and creates a literal stink. Near the end, we travel through Figment’s upside-down house. The finale takes place in a room that starts out fairly nondescript, then there is a flash and it transforms into a saccharine phantasmagoria of rainbows, stars, multiple Figments, and other bright objects. Again, it’s a very bizarre ride. Throughout, Figment sings a song called “One Little Spark,” an excessively charming earworm.

The ride’s exit leads to a room of interactive exhibits. One uses motion sensor technology where you wave your hands around to play virtual instruments. Another is a game where colored panels light up in a specific sequence, and then you try to copy the sequence as it gets progressively longer. There are computer terminals where you can design your own Figment. Here is my masterpiece (the name is an in-joke that literally two people will get, so don’t worry about it. I will say that it has to do with Build-A-Bear Workshop):



To the right of Imagination is the creatively named The Land. The doors open into a large, well-lit atrium with two levels. The upper level contains the full-service Garden Grill restaurant and the Circle of Life show. The lower level has the Sunshine Seasons food court, Soarin’ (identical to the original Soarin’ Over California and thus something we skipped) and Living With the Land (a boat ride).

Circle of Life is a large theater that shows a rather prosaic film starring Simba, Timon, and Pumbaa from the Lion King. Timon and Pumbaa want to build a real estate development, but Simba reminds them of the circle of life and the responsibility that everyone, especially humans, has in protecting the environment. Honestly, this is a very slight show and more like something one would see on TV or playing as a preshow in another attraction. It’s as far from Animal Kingdom’s Festival of the Lion King as you can get.

Sunshine Seasons is a nifty food court with no burgers, pizza, hot dogs, or French fries in sight. There are several food stations, including a salad bar, made-to-order sandwiches, Asian selections, and a grill. The salmon I has was delectable, and I’d put it up there with salmon I’ve had at some other full-service restaurants.

Living With the Land is not a thrill ride, but I really enjoyed it nonetheless. It starts out as a dark ride, traveling through sets representing different environments, including a jungle, desert, rainforest, and plain. After going through a corridor with props and monitors showing farm scenes, the boats enter a real greenhouse. A bevy of edible plants are grown here and labeled. The boats then go through a fish farm, passing tanks with fish and other aquatic creatures used for food. Another greenhouse contains giant versions of plants such as pumpkins and lemons. The final greenhouse has more specimens planted via techniques like vertical growing, aeroponics, and hydroponics. Maybe the reason I liked this ride is because it had so many elements; it starts out as one thing, and then gets more interesting as the ride progresses. It’s especially nice that there are no barriers between the boat and the plants (though most of them are far enough away to be unreachable).

The final pavilion in Future World West and the nearest to the entrance is The Living Seas With Nemo and Friends. To the right of the entrance is the Coral Reef Restaurant. The entrance leads to the queue of the Nemo ride. It’s a continually moving ride in clamshells like The Little Mermaid. The indoor queue area is rather long, but it was empty when we went in the early afternoon. The clamshells pass by projections of characters and situations from Finding Nemo, and then go through the pavilion’s massive aquarium where characters are projected on the windows among the real fish. They sing the “Big Blue World” song from the musical in Animal Kingdom.

The ride exits into the pavilion, which is basically a small aquarium, though it features a tank that’s probably larger than may aquariums’. A viewing area provides 360-degree views of the tank, which includes fish, sea turtles, and dolphins. Another area has specimens from Finding Nemo in their own small tank. Especially nice is a two-level manatee tank. We got to see the handlers feed the manatees romaine lettuce, which they gobbled up. Monitors throughout inform guests about sea life, narrated by Mr. Ray (Nemo’s teacher). Turtle Talk With Crush is also in this pavilion. The aquarium pales in comparison with, say, the massive Monterey Bay Aquarium. But it’s well done, and even Monterey doesn’t have manatees and dolphins (as of this writing). There is, of course, a gift shop at the pavilion’s exit.

We didn’t thoroughly explore all the pavilions in World Showcase, but I will go over what we did see. I’ll start on the east side with Mexico, and then go clockwise around the lagoon.

Unlike all the other pavilions, Mexico is all inside. The building is a large pyramid, and right inside the entrance is a small museum. It then opens up into a nighttime scene in a village square, complete with stands selling items, other shops, and a restaurant along the banks of a boat ride (shades of Disneyland’s Pirates of the Caribbean.)

The boat ride is the Gran Fiesta Tour Starring the Three Caballeros. There are a few Small World-esque puppets, but the ride consists primarily of large video screens. The boats pass by the restaurant and a pyramid before passing by screens that show parrot Jose Carioca (the green one) and rooster Panchito (the red one) as they look for Donald Duck in Mexico.  As the Unofficial Guide notes, only Panchito is Mexican; Jose is Brazilian and Donald is from Duckburg (which, if you’re wondering, is in the US state of Calisota). The three are shown interacting with live-action Mexican scenes. Donald, as is expected, is infatuated with the country’s girls. A room midway through features random dancing doll figures, and the finale mixes screens, dolls, and fiber optic fireworks. It’s fairly pleasant, if short, though the ride in Norway next door is even shorter.

Norway features a troll-obsessed shop, a princess meet-and-greet buffet restaurant, and a scatterbrained, disjointed, and very brief boat ride called Maelstrom. The ride had a fairly long (15 minute) line, which is not justified by the actual ride, which does have some interesting elements, but is much too short and falls flat. It starts by going up a lift, and then travels past some scenes of ancient Viking village life. A troll appears and sends the boats backwards over a drop. The boat, still going backwards, passes by nature scenes and a polar bear. The boats stop (with a brief view outside if you look back) and go forward down another drop to a storm scene with a huge oil rig. Then, the ride is over. Again, there are some interesting elements that could work given a longer and more coherent ride, but it doesn’t come together. At the exit, you can watch a tourism film about Norway.

The China pavilion has a Circle-Vision film (Reflections of China) that we didn’t see, as well as some restaurants. There is a small museum, which when we went featured displays on the Terra-Cotta warriors, including an impressive replica of some of the figures. The large House of Good Fortune features Chinese items and merchandise.

After a small dead area with stands selling African jewelry, there is the Germany pavilion. There are no rides, but a definite highlight is the Karamell-Küche store featuring all kinds of scrumptious sweets and baked goods dipped in caramel. We ate dinner at the Biergarten restaurant, a buffet with sauerbraten, breaded pork schnitzel, hot potato salad, and a vast variety of different sausages. The dining space is themed to an outdoor celebration of Oktoberfest in a village square at night. A stage showcases a German band, which plays songs from guess-where as well as popular drinking songs (a surprisingly large number of people joined in the latter songs).  Alphorns and a glockenspiel player were featured when we were there, along with the more traditional brass and accordion ensemble. Guests are also invited to dance at points. The food was okay, though it could have used some more flavor. The German pavilion features another gem: an outdoor model train set with several tracks and intricate landscaping.

We didn’t really explore the Italy pavilion. The American Adventure is an elaborate animatronic/film show that we didn’t get to see and one I hope to get to next time. The half-hour shows are every 45 minutes, and we got there just as a show started. There’s also an outdoor stage where the Voices of Liberty perform; for an a cappella group, they could get impressively loud.

The Japan pavilions has no attractions, but does have a trio of restaurants, a large pagoda, a garden with waterfalls and a koi pond, and the sprawling Mitsukoshi Department Store. All manner of Japanese goods are sold here, from snacks and kimonos to vintage action figures and manga. A counter sells pearls from oysters. There’s also an impressive liquor selection along with a tiny bar.



Next is Morocco, which we didn’t really look at. The France pavilion has a (non-accessible) Eiffel Tower replica, some fancy restaurants, and a panoramic film (Impressions de France). Down the pavilion’s winding street is an indoor area with a store and the Boulangerie Pâtisserie bakery, which sells baked goods and sandwiches. The toasted ham and cheese croissant sandwich is one of the simpler offerings, but it counts as a snack under the meal plan and tasted great.

Last are United Kingdom and Canada, both of which we saw in passing. The latter does have another Circle-Vision film (O Canada!) featuring Martin Short. Between World Showcase and Future World West was a path that had promotions for Oz The Great and Powerful, including posters, midway games, and a playground. I only mention it because we ended up traversing this rather narrow path several times.

Closing off the Epcot day is Illuminations, a nighttime spectacle that takes place on the World Showcase lagoon. We got to the area 10 or 15 minutes before it started and still got to stand right in front of the railing; it was nowhere near the madness of Disneyland’s Fantasmic (neither was the post-show exit). It’s a fairly short show, but it has fireworks, flares, flames, and a large, spinning globe with video projections of human achievement that floats on the lagoon’s surface. The pyrotechnics are impressively close, and many of them are launched from right in front of you. The proximity of the fireworks is neat, though most of them go off at the beginning and at a point about two-thirds through the show. One barge is devoted to flames, and the heat is palpable. You can pay to have a boat take you out in the lagoon during the show, and I can only imagine how the heat feels that much closer. As a finale, the globe opens up to reveal a flaming torch within, which shoots of fireworks of its own. The story and theme of the show is vague, and much of the show seems to be nothing but the globe spinning and displaying stock imagery. But as mentioned, the closeness of the fireworks and the in-the-round nature of the show take it up a few notches.

Epcot is a massive park, and we didn’t get to see all of World Showcase. But the variety of the attractions and its difference from the California parks made it my favorite of the Disney World parks. Disney admirably mixes entertainment, education, and thrills into a sometimes overwhelming, but still brilliant amalgamation of science and world culture. On a future trip, this is undoubtedly the park where I would personally like to spend the most time. There is nothing at the Disneyland Resort like it. Well, except Soarin’, but that was copied from California Adventure anyway. And Turtle Talk With Crush and the Captain EO show, but those are among Epcot’s more minor offerings. To many others, the Magic Kingdom will be the best Disney World park, but for me, Epcot takes the prize.

Next: Disney’s Hollywood Studios